On the Bench: Fimir Skintone

It has been no secret that I am madly in love with the fimir models from Warhammer Forge. Since they were revealed at the end of 2011, I was determined to incorporate them into one of my projects. Originally, I planned on using them in my daemons army, but there were no unit rules that reflected the look or base size of the fimir models. This lead me down the path of fitting them into my ogres list as I saw the potential in them being count-as maneaters. For today’s edition of On the Bench, I am reviewing the process I used to paint the skin tones on my first fimir.

The process begins with priming the model white using white primer.
Since the fimir are described as having yellow-greyish skintones, I tried to go with a scheme that was similar but still unique from what I could find on the internet. To this end, I began with a basecoat of Reapers Golden Skin Shadow. [4:1:1 paint:glaze medium:thinner] Once the basecoat was dry, I applied a wash of Vallejo Scrofulous Brown [1:1:4 paint:glaze:thinner] to the recesses of the model. This was followed by a wash of GW Septia [1:0:0] into the deepest parts.
I allowed the shading to dry completely overnight before beginning the process of building up the layers. I began with a couple of coats of Reapers Golden Skin Shadow. [4:1:1 paint:glaze medium:thinner]. With each layer, I moved ever so slightly away from the darkest parts of the model.
 
As I continued to move towards highlighting, I added Reapers Golden Skin to the Golden Skin Shadow. [8:2:2:2 Shadow:Skin:Glaze:Thinner]. I continue to add Reapers Golden Skin with each additional layer until I eventually get to a mix that is very close in color to the paint straight out of the bottle.
Moving into the extreme highlights, I begin with a mix of Reapers Golden Skin and Reapers Golden Highlights [8:2:2:2 Shadow:Skin:Glaze:Thinner].
 

With each additional highlight, I add more Reapers Golden Highlight into the mix. I usually also add a little more glaze and thinner, just to keep the paint flowing nicely and for the layers to blend together.

Next time, I will review my approach to painting the purple sections of the model.