Dreadtober Blood Axe Dread (Part 2)

The Jolly Green Dread.

As you can see, considerable progress has been made. Um, assuming one actually considers an Olive Drab spraypaint prime/basecoat progress. But as nutty as life has been lately, it's the best I could do.

Backside.

 I tried to give it a good solid coat, but I am afraid I may have to blast on another layer as it isn't quite matching how I visualized it. Still, I am excited to finally start my quest to have a Blood Axe detachment like I discussed in Dreadtober Part-1.

Bird's eye view of the open hatch.

Note that, unlike last year's Dreanought, I have decided to not have the pilot visible on this one. Once I track down the hatch, I intend to seal it onto this one. Just to be diffrent I suppose. However I will paint the interior (somewhat) in case I change my mind. Also, I neglected to talk about this in Part 1: the las cannon is upside down on this Dread. This was done to allow the top arm to be able to swivel (yes,  the model is fixed, it can't actually swivel) without busting it off. And I also think it looks cool. But the real reason was because back in the 2nd edition (which was the current edition way back when I first assembled this) when the Ork Dreadnought was attacked, a table was randomly rolled on to determine which location on the Dreadnought was struck. It seemed I was always either loosing both my Klaws, or both of my shootas! Mixing this up seemed to help this thing survive a bit longer.

Basecoat of Real Brown on the base.

A dark brown paint, specifically Folk Art Real Brown, was used for the base layer on the base.

Territorial Beige.