The elastic bands keep the seal whilst the two part epoxy dries, I am using JB Plastic Weld again, its superb. The pin to the knee gears can be seen above. The slot is where the knee armour gets placed.
The shin armour is also glued, the surface is small and is supplemented with a brass rod pin.
A lot of weight and forces go through the hips. The hip socket has been prepared, bare resin exposed and roughened and the addition of two pins will strengthen and prevent twisting. The opposite hip was still attached and not able to be broken apart so its fairly strong, so I added two pins into it (seen above) in the socket to make sure, also the two pins in the hip flex coupling were marked with paint and then I knew where to start drilling (the black and grey spots above).
Now drilled, when glued and clamped the hip will be a strong solid piece. I then have to pin the legs to the other end of the flex-coupling, and pin twice to prevent rotation - this is where Reaver Honorum build failed after several car journeys. Now repaired with pins and stronger epoxy, its a solid Reaver.I preserved the flames from one thigh armour plate, but painted blue - this echoes the flames on the toe piston armour and one of my vassal Imperial Knights. I like to preserve and adapt the previous history of my rescue Titans.
Here is the lower leg assembled, just the armour plates to glue and clamp in place once the thigh and hip socket part is attached and dried.
Some of the prepared armour plates and knees.
Here's a mock up of the standing pose, one leg is starting to lift, the heel of which has a plastic spacer so the weight of the titan is not on the toes but through the foot into the base (to come). This way the titan can be screwed to the base without stressing the toes joints and makes a more stable and solid build.
Cheers for dropping by, Princeps Seniores Siph