by CaulynDarr



I'm about 85% done.  There's still some clean up to do on her wings and base.  I might also re-do the faceplate of her helmet.  It didn't turn out quite like I wanted.  






I was really frustrated painter her.  I realized I hadn't painted anything for nearly a year, and my hands just weren't doing what they where supposed to.  I shouldn't have jumped back in with one of my favorite miniatures from the Kickstarter.



The model itself was a little disappointing.  The detail on the arms came out pretty poorly in the casting. As well as the visible part of the face.  It has almost no detail.  I had to paint on a bit of a smirk so it looked like she even had a mouth.  The concept renders also made it look like she would come with an alternate head without a helmet; unfortunately she didn't.

I'm assembled about a dozen other minis from the Kickstarter, and I think getting decent results is going to be pretty hard without good painting skills.  There's a lot of what was meant to be intricate detail that was softened and muddled due to the PVC material used.  The material is also a bit hard to work with in terms of cleaning up mold lines.  It cuts well, but it leaves noticeable scarring especially when the mold lines intersect with the aforementioned soft details.  The material at least bonds well with super clue.  Sets in a few seconds without having to use any Zip Kick.  I'd also suggest using a very light primer; a thicker primer like Army Painter will probably fill in to much of the deal.  P3 seems to work well as I've found it to be the lightest spay primer on the market.

Though I did get over a hundred miniatures, and most of them haven't been unboxed.  Some turned out really well, others are more problematic.  Yeah there's this,  but that's mostly an exception to the norm(it doesn't help that the material is partially translucent and does not photograph well) . Most are at least of passable quality. I think we are learning that a cool digital sculpt does not necessarily make for a good miniature.  3D printing lets us realize some pretty sharp results in the prototype phase, but the casting qualities of the material still maters.  Rounding up a bunch of digital artists off Deviant Art, just isn't going to cut it.

In the future when it comes to Kickstarters, be wary of pretty renders, art, and 3d-printed prototypes. Make sure to see if they have actual prototypes in the final material.  Otherwise, you don't know what quality you are going to get.  A lot of Kickstarters are powering through with this PVC stuff (also known as restic) as it's only redeeming quality is cost.  I'm overall pretty happy with Relic Knights, but I feel it could have been an order of magnitude better if done in true resin or metal.  The quantity is really making up for the quality at this point, and the rules look pretty fun.

In the future I'll be avoiding any Kickstarters using PVC.  As the base for a pre-paint line, its would probably be OK.  But for a game you want to use your hobby skills on and make look pretty, you want some better base materiel to work with.