This is the second Habitat 3 I've built from the Forward Base Kickstarter the new retail versions of which are available from Antenocitis Workshop. The new versions have some differences mainly in the replacement of the resin elements with MDF and acrylic parts.  One of the advantages of the newer design is that the door are operational while here, in this first generation model, they are not.  I like to think of these doors and windows as variably permeable adaptive solid holograms but the new doors are quite nice with a more traditional air-lock feel.
 Building on my previous experience with this kit I first looked at what accessories were available.  The build instructions assume the basic model without upgrades or add-ons. They do mention a critical area to leave unglued if installing the interior later or if it needs to be removed for painting.

The first step was to identify what acrylic accessories I had available and where they needed to be installed.
 Installation follows a familiar pattern: Cut out the location with a strong hobby blade. Remove the protective plastic film and pre-fit the acrylic part making any adjustments necessary to get the piece to fit snugly but not require the part to be forced into position. Usually these are slightly over-sized to the opening so some filing to actual size is needed.  Filing MDF is tricky so I tend to file the acrylic along the length of the edges.
 Before the final installation I paint the detail areas like door outlines, lettering, caution markings, and window rings then attach the acrylic using tiny amounts of Tacky Glue. With all these MDF projects use as little glue as possible and avoid getting it on the acrylic surfaces.  Tacky Glue works well because if a little glue makes it onto the acrylic it can usually be quickly removed without damaging the finish. NEVER use super glue for this as it will cloud the acrylic finish even if it doesn't directly touch it.
 After getting all the acrylic installed I add on some of the resin parts, like vents and power connectors, that require a hole be made in the MDF to avoid having to punch a hole in the assembled walls. I also paint these before gluing them on.  I use super glue for these resin attachments and would note that the superglue sets VERY rapidly between resin and this MDF so its important to get the placement perfect on contact.

Its time to start building the shell.

These models are pre-colored and I will have already painted the details on them. I leave the weathering until the end but doing it now would also work out.

For MDF to MDF joins I use Super Phatic glue which sets quickly and gives a strong bond with very small amounts of glue.
Starting at the top build the bay window.  The sides of the bay have a small "T" printed on the top most tab to indicate which should be on top.

As always dry fit all parts before gluing. The accuracy is generally very good but occasionally there with be a peg that doesn't gracefully fit and requires a little adjustment with a file or hobby knife.

Side walls next aligning with the floor detail.

Rear wall connecting the two side walls then the two front panels.  These are a little fidgety to get square and benefit from clamps on the inside walls and rubber bands on the outside walls as shown in the photo with the clamps... note the hard to see rubber bands on the outside edges.

Pre-fit the topmost long strips... DO NOT GLUE... you want these to fit right and to help hold the shape of the shell but will need to remove them to install the interior resin walls.  The bump out goes on the side of the bay window.  check the fit of the central roof panel to make sure its in the right place.

Next the top angled parts with the printed solar cell pattern can be glued into place.  They don't interfere with resin placement and will help establish the shape of the shell.

Next Flip the model and install the lower panels. These get glued in.

Thats all for this part!

Next time I'll put in the resin interior, build the add-ons, and do the exterior finishing.