We start with a drawing of the plan. The idea for these two 24"-square boards is to have a sluice canal. There's a lot of water on this table, but most of it will be playable. The rise terraces are counted as difficult ground. A lot of bridges and pontoons will be used and the models will be able to use little boats to move over the water.

We make sure everything is compatible with the other boards first. The boards can also be combined with the other edge as well.

Pieces of green foam are cut in the right shape. They are smoothed over with sandpaper before the stone designs are drawn into it with a pencil or biro.

After a few hours of work the stones are completed.

For the borders of the terraces a half-round shaped strip of blue foam is glued in place. Blue foam is a strong and flexible product, perfect for smaller details.

The shape of the terraces is done with a palette knife from a mix of filler plaster and PVA glue. The white glue makes your plaster much harder and avoids any crack formations or flakiness.

Edges are filled and flattened.

The frog faces are for filling the water in the sluice canals. They are made by pressing a little statue in plasticine a few times so you have different molds you can fill with dental plaster. Once glued in place, the painting can start with the undercoats, highlights and weathering effects.


 
The sluice doors and pontoons are made and painted separately and will be put in place once the water zones are varnished.


The undeep water for the rice terraces is made in trompe-l'oeil technique. They are varnished afterwards.

Cool details can be added, like a drawbridge for example.

As a final part, flocks and long grass are fixed in place. I also cut the CT-Scenery monkey statues for esthetics and to show the depth of the terraces.

 I hoped you liked the tutorial. Do not hesitate should you have any questions.